Sunday, March 17, 2013

Out like a light

Here they call it load shedding--a sign of one of the world's most corrupt governments. That is, an inability to supply its populace with enough energy to meet its demands. The problem is not a lack of fuel, my husband explained to me, but corruption in the government. As much as I really love Pakistan, load shedding makes it look ridiculous on the international stage.

At home, when the power goes out, it sometimes causes a small panic--depending on the reason. Sometimes a car hits a pole (local, minor inconvenience). Sometimes a storm will knock down some lines--which can be trouble if the storm is, say, a blizzard, leaving you without heat or a way to cook food. (Time to make use of that fireplace and camp stove finally!) Or a major inconvenience if the storm is a hurricane and clean water could be a primary concern. (Or if you're 14, the primary concern is probably the lack of a/c in September heat… Fran.)

But here in Pakistan, for minutes or hours at a time, it can seem very run-of-the-mill. Back-up power is generally supplied by a UPS (uninterrupted power supply) box, which will power a few essential things, like a single light in most rooms (important at night) and ceiling fans. What surprised me most about load shedding when I first came to Pakistan was just how it didn't seem to affect anybody at all. Without paying attention sometimes, I wouldn't even know when the power was off.

During the day, light isn't an issue if a room gets natural sunlight. The only real problems it caused me on my last visit were erratic internet access and not having any light in the bathroom at night. Sounds trivial to you? I wasn't doing my hair at 2am! Try stumbling around in the dark when you've got to go! Somehow we managed to fit a few flashlights into our bags this trip so hopefully that won't be a problem if I get sick again. Also, now we're using a wireless broadband device that creates a WiFi area when powered by a USB port. So I plug it into my Surface (Surface 1 iPad 0) and can get internet almost anywhere in the house--on any other device, too. Sounds amazing, right? Actually, it's prone to overheating and cuts off all the time too.

One day I was dining at a restaurant when the power went out. For a moment the kitchen went dark (this could be a real issue, as prepared food needed to be kept at a certain hot temperature) and then a generator had the lights and everything back on. Everything, that is, except the cable--a manager came by and turned off the TV that was showing only static.

Now I'm used to it. Though I'll admit, a few times last year I wondered why people were entertaining us in such dimly lit rooms. (A large room with one isolated light on is just that--dim.) And then the lights came on.

I guess the people here get by--and just deal as best they can with the randomness of the power situation, never knowing when or how long the lights will be on. So the load shedding has become just a part of life, I thought, like the setting or rising of the sun. Since I first wrote this post up, though, I started to notice more about the lights going out.

For starters, the times without power seem to be growing, and becomes more of an issue than just sitting in dim lights at night. If the lights have been out most of an afternoon, clean clothes pile up waiting to be pressed the next day. The adhan for jumu'ah was made before all the boys' suits were ready last Friday.

Our food at home is generally prepared using a gas stove with two burners. There's a microwave in the kitchen but if we want hot salan (curry) or roti (bread), you'll need to heat it on the stove which of course takes longer. The baby and I are also only drinking filtered boiled water--which means that one burner is often being used to boil water.

In reality, we have it pretty easy. There are plenty of families, I'm sure, without a UPS who have a much harder time. The government really should be ashamed and embarrassed that it can't keep the lights on.

Friday, March 8, 2013

KFC and Pizza Hut

Yesterday I ate a salan* that was so spicy, I think I ate half a container of yogurt just to finish a few spoonfuls. It was capsicum qeema, or basically a lot of green chilis and a little bit of ground beef. So when my husband offered to take me to KFC, I was very excited. I thought my mouth deserved a break from the desi food with a classic from the colonel.

The fries weren't spicy. Too bad we weren't interested in eating them.

Sorry to say, it was not what I expected. I haven't been to a KFC in a while but I'm pretty sure that what we ate wasn't anything close to original recipe. I did manage to get some corn on the cob, though--a definite win.

Again tonight, Umer ordered some pizza from Pizza Hut and I thought, yay, American food. I was trying to put Zakariyya to sleep when it arrived so he brought me up a plate of what he called "desi pizza." I thought he said that just because it had some spicy meat and a lot of onions on it.

Nope.

In place of the tomato sauce was something else that after about one slice practically turned me into a fire-breathing dragon. Is there no relief?

This, I'm sure, is why so many of my friends underestimate my spice tolerance--so I don't leave with a lot of burning in my mouth and little food in my tummy to show for it. And special props to my mother-in-law for all the awesome salans that are always at just the right spice level. Ammi Jee knows best!

 

*I guess a salan is what a curry is… I really don't know how else to translate it. It's the spicy meaty saucy good stuff that you eat with roti (flat bread) or rice.

Sign
This sign was posted at the KFC. It says they condemn the blasphemous film about the Prophet (pbuh.)

 

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Lizards

Lizards are the local pest. They seem to find a way through even windows that are screened. So if you dare open your window… watch out for lizards. I found one in our bathroom last year--at first it freaked me out. They move so fast! This year one snuck in and hid behind the clock on the wall and I haven't seen it since.

Another lizard got into our room last year, though. And it was a really tiny one. It snuck into one of our suitcases… and there it remained. I discovered it some 9 months later in North Carolina, all dead and dessicated, when it fell out of a snapped pocket in one of my bags. So it made it to America without a passport--to Seattle, and then even to Raleigh, before I discovered it.

After which, of course, I took a picture of it.

Lizard
Dead lizard

 

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Kino!

Last year when my nephew saw me coming downstairs he would yell "Kinoooooo!"

I usually had them with breakfast, or any random time of day. Even when I was sick. I really love this fruit.

I think we're at the late end of the season for kino now in March, but they are still so good! The navel oranges we have back home are often short on taste and juice, they're hard to peel, and sting like crazy when the juice touches any raw skin. I used to love oranges... until I discovered the amazing kino. Last year I even brought some on the plane with me, which I ate on the flight--nothing to declare to customs!

Sweet and juicy, the kino is just one thing I really love about Pakistan.

 

Monday, March 4, 2013

Shalwar Qameez

One important thing to understand about Pakistan is the shalwar qameez, the typical style of dress here. It's basically a suit consisting of matching pants (shalwar) and shirt (qameez.) For ladies, the suit also includes a matching scarf called a dupatta.

Shalwar Qameez

My first time coming to Pakistan, I agonized a lot about what to wear. I discussed the issue with my friends--what the weather would be like, how my generally American clothes would be perceived in public, whether an abayah would save me from stares. When I actually arrived, it basically became a non-issue. My family already had some nice shalwar qameez prepared for me which I changed into that very day, and wore almost every day thereafter.

What I hadn't really counted on was how incredibly comfortable they were! The previous suits I'd owned did not fit properly so I wasn't able to realize how relaxing it is to dress this way. In fact, I even wore some of these shalwar qameez once I returned home; they were especially nice while pregnant during the summer's record breaking heat.

A few of my new suits

When I came back this year, I brought a few suits from last year, and expected to have a few more made. As of my fifth day here, I have 9 new suits made already, and a few more on the way to the tailor! It's so easy to have clothes stitched here, I'm thinking of getting a new abayah or two done before I leave.

The suits I got last year had trousers instead of shalwar. The trousers have a mostly straight leg, while shalwar pants are kind of tapered to the ankle with a lot of fabric up top. Of my suits from this year, many will be made with shalwar. Apparently the shalwar style is back in vogue; trousers and a pajama pant that bunches near the ankle have also been stylish here.

Colorful prints on a light and breezy fabric called lawn is also popular, and I'm looking forward to getting more of it this trip. I hear that it's really popular in the summer when the temperatures soar, though I'm much too chicken to brave a Pakistani summer. I've been wearing mostly lawn since I got here because even though the weather is cool for the locals, I'm still acclimated to the Seattle winter and feel pretty warm here most of the time.

 

 

Friday, March 1, 2013

International Travel

Mom and Baby
Ready for intl travel

It's hard to believe that just a few days ago my husband and I and our infant son embarked on a journey. We left our fabulous new apartment outside of Seattle to visit family in Pakistan. The last few weeks have just been insanely hectic--with a move across town, (packing, cleaning, unpacking), hosting two parties at our new place, a small surgery on my foot, and shopping and packing for our trip to Pakistan. So hectic that by the time I was on the plane, I was finally able to relax! But now that the hard part of travel is behind us, I can breathe easier. Because this is my second time visiting Pakistan, I have a better idea of what to expect. And as long as I'm here, I can really relax.

Zakariyya
Zakariyya on plane

I've wanted for a while to blog about my trip to Pakistan, but never got around to it. So this year hopefully I can get it done while I still here. If you dare to read on, beware that I am still a bit jet lagged and thus my writing quality reflects it.

Since the trip started with the flights--Seattle to Dubai, then Dubai to Lahore--it seems an appropriate place to start. And the most memorable moment had to be during the descent into Lahore. That's when the baby decided to poop. And poop. And poop. Of course, while landing we couldn't use the lavatory to change him. Instead we had to hold him in our laps while his diaper blew out. So, up his shirt and out into the world, into my husband's jacket. After landing we still had to wait for all the first/business class passengers to deplane, and then there would be the line at immigration. But I just couldn't keep carrying him, poop all over, knowing he was about to meet these family members for the first time. So no sooner than we were greeted by the dusty smell of the Allama Iqbal International airport, did we find a corner behind a pillar and decided to change him right there in the hallway.

With that exception, he was really great during the trip, making things easy for us. Having an extra seat on our row during the flight to Dubai (14 hours!) helped too. From the time we left our home in Seattle (1pm Tuesday) until we arrived at our family's home in Lahore (5am Thursday) was about 27 hours. So we had to be prepared for that (plus more in the case of delays or other emergencies anywhere along the way) in terms of diapers, wipes, and a way to feed him. I have long wished he would have breastfed from the beginning to spare us some trouble along this trip. Instead, we had to be prepared with formula and bottles, and even a way to clean the bottles. Plus a breast pump because he still gets some breast milk.

Playtex Nurser
Playtex Nurser

Carrying as many bottles as we'd need in order to avoid washing them wasn't really a practical option. On the other hand, washing them on the plane isn't really practical either. Instead, we decided to buy pre-made formula (in case we were unsure of the water quality) and also had some packets of powdered formula already measured out. We purchased enough at home for the trip here, the trip back, and in case of any emergency situation while here in Lahore.

But just what we carried on the plane was enough to make the TSA grimace. But I'm okay with that--there are limits to what I will compromise on to make their job easier.

To solve the bottle problem, we started feeding Zakariyya from a Playtex Nurser, which is a system that uses pre-sterilized disposable liners instead of a regular bottle. It meant we only had to clean the nipples. Until now we had been using Dr. Brown's bottles, which have a few pieces that would need to be washed. And not just on the plane, but also washed for every feeding--creating another headache once we reached our destination. Last year I got really sick so now I try to be extra cautious of the water, and I feel better having less that needs to be washed. Our decision to use the Nurser though did mean that we had to pack plenty of liners in our checked baggage. It did take a few days to get him used to using e Nurser, but I'm grateful he finally took it. So far it's made life a lot easier.

Partial stash of baby supplies

Having heard from some friends that the quality of diapers and formula in Pakistan might not be what I was used to, or might not be available, we decided to bring all the formula and diapers he would need. This took up a lot of room in our bags!

But at least I didn't need to bring too many clothes--my mother-in-law is having some made while I'm visiting. Even the fabric was ready once I arrived and a suit was made my first day here.